New male order A few days before the release of her monograph of Loulou de la Falaise, Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni parses the winter fashion shows and gives her advice on menswear-inspired styles. i la dynamique masculine poursuit son incursion dans le vestiaire féminin, avec sa kyrielle de vestes structurées, de longs manteaux, de pantalons larges et des pulls amples, des injections de couleur viennent désormais réveiller cette désinvolture par le truchement de soies imprimées, de tricots vibrants, de chaussures métallisées ou de maquillages brillants. Au revoir la sévérité, bonjour la fantaisie ! Mais pour que l'inattendu fonctionne, il faut faire montre d'une certaine confiance et oser personnaliser sa silhouette. Le tout en douceur, en adoptant un collier substantiel ou une ombre à paupières soutenue. Il n'en reste pas moins que cette touche personnelle est impérative cette saison. En adéquation avec l'état d'esprit gagneur et conquérant qui séduit de plus en plus la gent féminine, le message est clair : désarmer de pied en cap, avec des éclats de fantaisie hérités des atours de dame. This fall in fashion, the masculine dynamic continues to make inroads into womenswear with a host of structured jackets, long coats, baggier pants and boyfriendlarge sloppy sweaters, along with an important injection of color that boosts the effortless ease via patterned silks, vibrant knitwear, metallic footwear and glossy makeup. Strict is out and playful is in, but pulling off the unexpected requires confidence and a certain daring. Go easy by adding a chunky necklace or opting for a more obvious eye shadow. Nevertheless, that personal touch is imperative this season. Fitting in with the growing “achieve and lead” mood for women, the underlined message is clear: to disarm with flashes of whimsy inherited from women's finery. La veste La veste de costume demeure un incontournable. Raf Simons, pour Dior, et Christophe Lemaire, pour Hermès, ont ainsi tous les deux élaboré de formidables tailleurs-pantalons, dans la veine de Pallas et de ses smokings impeccables. Daniel et Véronique Pallas duo à la ville comme au studio ont aiguisé leur style auprès de créateurs tels que Karl Lagerfeld et Nicolas Ghesquière, avant de lancer leur propre marque il y a deux ans. Ils font déjà l'objet d'un culte grâce à leurs manches irréprochables et, de façon générale, à leur coupe parfaitement ajustée. L'apparition d'Aymeline Valade au Festival de Cannes l'actricemannequin interprète Betty Catroux dans le prochain biopic sur Yves Saint Laurent l'a incontestablement confirmé. Jacket A must item continues to be a tailored jacket. Both Raf Simons at Dior and Christophe Lemaire at Hermès delivered terrific pantsuits, as did Pallas, with its impeccable tuxedos. Daniel and Véronique Pallas—a husband and wife team— honed their style with designers like Karl Lagerfeld and Nicolas Ghesquière, before launching their brand two years ago. They have already gleaned a cult-like status due to their flawless sleeves and perfect cut. The appearance of Aymeline Valade at the Cannes Film Festival—the model/actress features as Betty Catroux in the next Yves Saint Laurent biopicture—certainly confirmed this. © Bruno Werzinski - Zoé Ghertner - Céline Le manteau Pallas dont la signature est une large bande de satin noire sur le dos a également conçu des manteaux de smoking qui couvrent et protègent celles qui les portent. La protection s'avère un mot-clé du vêtement d'extérieur, depuis la veste de biker en agneau de Mongolie de Sacai, en passant par les manteaux d'Haider Ackermann qui flottent au ras du sol jusqu'à ceux de Phoebe Philo pour Céline, dans le style années 1930, arrivant au mollet qu'ils soient surréalistes, dotés de gros boutons blancs décalés, ou à imprimé animal. Avec de simples vêtements d'inspiration masculine, Phoebe Philo, l'une des grandes prêtresses de la mode contemporaine, a ainsi imposé une forme de sensibilité nouvelle : la sensibilité assumée. Coat Pallas—whose signature is a large black satin stripe at the back—also produced smoking-like coats that encase and protect the wearer. Protection being a key word for outerwear, from Sacai's Mongolian lamb biker jackets to Haider Ackermann's ground-sweeping coats to Phoebe Philo at Céline's calf-skimming 1930s-style coats—either surrealistic with a mismatch of white buttons or offering blurred animal print. With simple masculine-style clothes, Phoebe Philo, one of contemporary fashion's reigning high priestesses, has been pushing empowered tenderness. Le pull-over La douceur est à l'honneur avec les mailles de Céline une tendance majeure de la saison –, ainsi que l'a démontré sa série de tuniques, parfois couplées aux pantalons coordonnés. À travers une collection féerique et un poil garçon manqué, Ackermann a poussé la hardiesse jusqu'à rehausser ses tuniques à côtes et ses pantalons d'un boléro, et même accorder ses leggings pied-depoule à de longs manteaux de texture identique. Toutefois, pour ceux qui sont à la recherche de mailles plus sobres pour une touche d'élégance moderne, des pièces provenant de spécialistes du genre comme la Maison Barrie, Lucien Pellat-Finet ou HTT feront plus facilement l'affaire. Knitwear Softness is furthered by Céline's knitwear—a key tendency of the collections—as demonstrated by a range of tunics, occasionally teamed with matching pants. In a whimsical, slightly tomboyish collection, Ackermann boldly styled his ribbed tunic and pants with a bolero, and even matched his houndstooth leggings with a same-knit long coat. However, for those searching for more low-key knitwear to add contemporary flair, items from experts such as the House of Barrie, Lucien Pellat-Finet and HTT will more easily work. 115 Costume d'homme avec veste et pantalon en flanelle beige liège, cardigan en cachemire, Hermès. Men's suit, with cork beige flannel jacket and trousers, cashmere sweater, Hermès. Manteau à coupe épurée en cachemire sur pantalon en flanelle marine, Céline. Straight-line cashmere coat over navy flannel pants, Céline.
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