Boussoles à la page Pyjama en crêpe marocain s'inspirant du vestiaire masculin des années 1930, Raphaëlla Riboud. Moroccan crepe pajamas inspired by 1930s menswear, Raphaëlla Riboud. Voire le cardigan Barrie le fabricant de cachemire écossais repris par Chanel et célèbre pour ses teintes vives vient de lancer sa première collection de prêt-àporter, disponible dans son nouveau piedà-terre 380, rue Saint-Honoré, à Paris. La ligne se compose, entre autres, de pulls ajustés, de cardigans de coupe masculine et d'écharpes. De son côté HTT, basé à Londres aussi connu comme Horiyoshi The Third, en hommage à l'artiste tatoueur japonais a conçu des pulls près du corps avec du brocart et un imprimé de rose agrandie, ainsi que des cardigans à grosses mailles torsadées trempés dans un bain métallique. Les tuniques métallisées suffisamment courtes pour faire office de hauts ont composé le thème récurrent du défilé de Hedi Slimane chez Saint Laurent. Parfaites pour les allergiques au tricot, elles apportent éclat et chatoiement, ainsi qu'une touche rock'n'roll à n'importe quelle silhouette. Aux antipodes, Chanel joue la carte de la fraîcheur, avec un savant dosage de motifs et de couleurs ultrapop, élargissant une partition de mailles qui semblait déjà infinie. 116 Even then cardigan Barrie—the Chanel-owned Scottish cashmere house noted for its bright hues—has just launched its first ready-to-wear collection, available at their boutique on 380 Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. Styles include fitted sweaters, boyfriend cardigans and scarves. Meanwhile, the London-based HTT—also known as Horiyoshi The Third, after the famous Japanese tattoo artist—has designed snug sweaters with a brocade and enlarged rose print, and also chunky, cable cardigans dipped in metallic. Metallic tunics—short enough to double as simple tops—were a key theme from Saint Laurent's Hedi Slimane. Ideal for those averse to knitwear, they give shine, shimmer and rock'n'roll edge to any look. On the other end of the spectrum, Chanel went for a fresh look, with a smart mix of patterns and bright pop colors, expanding a range of knits that already seems infinite. Le pantalon Côté pantalons, c'est un style plus souple et masculin qui a prévalu sur les podiums. Chanel comme Céline ont proposé leur alternative mode au survêtement tandis que Peter Copping, pour Nina Ricci, en a paré le cordon d'une touche raffinée. Quant à Raphaëlla Riboud, elle a fait dans le chic décontracté avec ses pyjamas en soie imprimée, façon soir des années 1930. Pants As for pants, a looser, mannish style was prevalent on the runway. Both Chanel and Céline gave their designer alternative of the jogging pant, whereas Peter Copping, for Nina Ricci, revealed his refined twist on the drawstring. And the Paris-based Raphaëlla Riboud provided a relaxed 1930s chic for the evening with her printed silk pajamas. Et au pied ? Rayon chaussures enfin, Miuccia Prada continue de surprendre en nous convertissant à la botte rouge vif et bleu pétrole qui monte jusqu'au genou, tandis que de nombreux créateurs d'accessoires privilégient le bout ouvert dans des sandales en hiver dont la fameuse Cross Street à talon haut et lanière de Christian Louboutin, déclinée en version métallisée. Cette mise à nu du pied imposerait-elle le vernis à ongle par grand froid ? Voilà qui cadrerait bien avec une saison tout entière tournée vers la revendication des contrastes. And footwear? Regarding footwear, finally, Miuccia Prada continues to surprise, convincing us with her bright tomato red or petrol blue knee-high boots, while many accessory designers have opted for open-toe winter sandals, including Christian Louboutin's famous strappy, high-heeled Cross Street sandals, available in a metallic version. Will these bare toes require nail polish in the winter? It fits in with a fashion season energized by a demand for contrast. © Raphaëlla Riboud
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