Correspondances les impossibles ? Baume les dames TEXTE Marie Aucouturier PhoTo Mathieu Martin Paris en a perdu la tête Et les mains. Et les jambes. Et le cou. Et sa maison aussi. Depuis quelques mois, Paris ne pense plus qu'à Buly, cette enseigne de cosmétiques fondée en 1803, oubliée du chaland et remise sur pied par les très ingénieux Ramdane Touhami et Victoire de Taillac – déjà auteurs, dans la même veine, de feu la Parfumerie Générale et de la réanimation du cirier Trudon. À mi-chemin entre l'offcine d'apothicaire et la fèvre végétalo-miraculeuse de l'herboriste, Buly vous emmène en voyage en dispensant de l'introuvable à haute dose. Du parfum non pas à l'alcool mais à l'eau, d'une consistance laiteuse qu'il convient de masser sur la peau. De l'huile japonaise pour nettoyer le pavillon de l'oreille. De l'argile bleue des Carpates, vendue au poids. Des encens à brûler, pour purifer l'air, et des bougies artistiquement parfumées, servies dans des godets de marbre vert. Le tout fcelé avec maîtrise, dans une typographie d'une autre époque, des calligraphies pour chaque produit, et des illustrations au doux songe d'élixir bonne-maman. Même le sol a été minutieusement pensé : des carreaux «de terre de Toscane, émaillée dans des fours étrusques vieux de trois mille ans en Italie». Cela aussi, vous l'auriez cru impossible. 156 Paris has lost its head over it And its hands. And its legs. And its neck. Its house, too. In recent months, Paris has succumbed to Buly, a cosmetics brand founded in 1803 and long forgotten, relaunched by the ingenious Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac. The pair also engineered, in similar style, the cosmetics outlet Parfumerie Générale, now closed, and the revival of the wax producer Trudon. Buly is a cross between an old-fashioned apothecary and a trendy herbalist, dispensing miracle plant remedies. It takes you to a world of rare marvels: perfume with a milky texture that's water-based (not alcohol-based) for rubbing onto the skin; Japanese ear-cleansing oil; blue Carpathian clay sold by weight; incense to purify the air; artistically scented candles presented in green marble pots. All beautifully packaged with vintage labels, calligraphic designs and illustrations conjuring up grandma's special formulas. Even the foor was lovingly designed, covered with “enameled Tuscany earthenware tiles fred in 3,000-year-old Etruscan kilns in Italy.” You'd think that that were impossible, too. Buly 1803 6, rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris. Tél. +33 (0)1 43 29 02 50. www.buly1803.com
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